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Post by ToddSig on Apr 10, 2024 14:13:39 GMT -5
As posted in an earlier thread, I just did a fair amount of drop in part installation on an alloy HP. I used starter pin punches and roll pin holders, and what a world of difference they make. Back in August of 2023 Bob Reed posted the following on another forum about starter punches and punch pin holders. I immediately ordered....and man, do they make life easier when installing and working with roll pins. I have managed to mangle a few in the past, but using the starter punches on the alloy project made pin installation easy with no mashed pins! Thanks Bob! Hope Bob doesnt mind me reposting on HPC as they are so helpful anyone who works on pistols should have them. The correct size punch for the extractor pin is actually 5/64" but you should always use a Roll Pin Punch. The sear lever pin is 3/32" - and again, it's best to use a roll pin punch.
Brownells has Roll Pin Starter Punches, Std. Length Roll Pin Punches & Roll Pin Holders as well. I have a few different brands, but I use my Brownells short, starter punches the most. You usually don't need to replace the sear lever pin (just move it enough to the left to free the lever) and the short 5/64" Roll Pin Punch will 'usually' have enough shank length to remove the extractor pin (when properly driven downward from the top of the slide.)
Roll Pin Starter Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN STARTER PUNCHES | Brownells
Std. Length Roll Pin Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN PUNCHES | Brownells
Roll Pin Holders (a Very Handy Tool): BROWNELLS ROLL PIN HOLDERS | Brownells |
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Post by Mister Coffee on Apr 11, 2024 11:19:33 GMT -5
As posted in an earlier thread, I just did a fair amount of drop in part installation on an alloy HP. I used starter pin punches and roll pin holders, and what a world of difference they make. Back in August of 2023 Bob Reed posted the following on another forum about starter punches and punch pin holders. I immediately ordered....and man, do they make life easier when installing and working with roll pins. I have managed to mangle a few in the past, but using the starter punches on the alloy project made pin installation easy with no mashed pins! Thanks Bob! Hope Bob doesnt mind me reposting on HPC as they are so helpful anyone who works on pistols should have them. The correct size punch for the extractor pin is actually 5/64" but you should always use a Roll Pin Punch. The sear lever pin is 3/32" - and again, it's best to use a roll pin punch.
Brownells has Roll Pin Starter Punches, Std. Length Roll Pin Punches & Roll Pin Holders as well. I have a few different brands, but I use my Brownells short, starter punches the most. You usually don't need to replace the sear lever pin (just move it enough to the left to free the lever) and the short 5/64" Roll Pin Punch will 'usually' have enough shank length to remove the extractor pin (when properly driven downward from the top of the slide.)
Roll Pin Starter Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN STARTER PUNCHES | Brownells
Std. Length Roll Pin Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN PUNCHES | Brownells
Roll Pin Holders (a Very Handy Tool): BROWNELLS ROLL PIN HOLDERS | BrownellsDo I order 5/64 on all of these? (Todd, if you don't speak slowly and spell everything out, a dummy like me will never understand.  ) |
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Post by ToddSig on Apr 11, 2024 12:02:19 GMT -5
As posted in an earlier thread, I just did a fair amount of drop in part installation on an alloy HP. I used starter pin punches and roll pin holders, and what a world of difference they make. Back in August of 2023 Bob Reed posted the following on another forum about starter punches and punch pin holders. I immediately ordered....and man, do they make life easier when installing and working with roll pins. I have managed to mangle a few in the past, but using the starter punches on the alloy project made pin installation easy with no mashed pins! Thanks Bob! Hope Bob doesnt mind me reposting on HPC as they are so helpful anyone who works on pistols should have them. The correct size punch for the extractor pin is actually 5/64" but you should always use a Roll Pin Punch. The sear lever pin is 3/32" - and again, it's best to use a roll pin punch.
Brownells has Roll Pin Starter Punches, Std. Length Roll Pin Punches & Roll Pin Holders as well. I have a few different brands, but I use my Brownells short, starter punches the most. You usually don't need to replace the sear lever pin (just move it enough to the left to free the lever) and the short 5/64" Roll Pin Punch will 'usually' have enough shank length to remove the extractor pin (when properly driven downward from the top of the slide.)
Roll Pin Starter Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN STARTER PUNCHES | Brownells
Std. Length Roll Pin Punches: BROWNELLS ROLL PIN PUNCHES | Brownells
Roll Pin Holders (a Very Handy Tool): BROWNELLS ROLL PIN HOLDERS | BrownellsDo I order 5/64 on all of these? (Todd, if you don't speak slowly and spell everything out, a dummy like me will never understand. ) No worries Mr C here is what I ordered and they worked great on the alloy project for the sear lever roll pin and ejector roll pin. Cant recommend them more highly. The roll pin holder was great. I ordered the 5/64 and 3/32 roll pin holderthe 5/64 and 3/32 roll pin starter punchand the 5/64 and 3/32 roll pin punch (you may already have these, but extra are always good. Below is an image of my Brownells order. Isnt saving emails wonderful for finding things from the past! If you type in the item # in Brownells search box they should come up.  |
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Post by Bob Reed on Apr 11, 2024 16:13:39 GMT -5
The roll pin holders (work with solid pins too) and the reduced length starter punches are often long enough for the job because I usually just move the pin(s) enough to free the part and replace the ones that have lost tension.
Tip: To avoid damaging (rising-up) the edge around the extractor's pin hole on the top of the slide - always drive from the top downward when removing the extractor pin and reinstall it from the bottom of the slide. When reinstalling the extractor pin from the bottom, drive the pin in, but keep it slightly below the top surface of the slide in order to give your punch a small counterbore to sit in to help avoid possibly slipping and damaging the finish the next time the pin is removed - but make sure the pin isn't still protruding into the sear lever's channel.
Note: Since the extractor's pin hole goes through the sear lever's channel, the pin holder won't work when installing the extractor pin from the bottom (not enough pin above the surface), but there's a 'groove' on the side of the sear lever's channel created from machining for the extractor pin. Stand the pin in/against the groove on the side of the channel and drive her home.
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Post by Mister Coffee on Apr 12, 2024 11:37:05 GMT -5
Thanks Todd (and Bob). Unless I hear further from you, I will assume that these punches will work the same on non-alloy frame BHPs. (I don't own any alloy BHPs.) I'll go through the punches that I have and make sure I'm not duplicating. Also kind of inspired to buy a new dedicated tool box for my gunsmithing stuff. Plano knows what color my check are. I usually buy from them. |
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