Alloy Project

[ToddSig]

I have finally found and purchased a donor High Power for my Apex Tactical parts project. I have been looking for a decent deal on a Hi Power, found one which was too nice to mess with, thought about using one of mine in the collection and could not bring myself to do so. Found a decent condition 1980 alloy at a fair price and grabbed it. Alloy anodized finish in pretty good condition, and the slide with typical epoxy paint. Will try to save the anodized finish, and am now in the process of removing the paint from the slide. Stripped everything, and just off the phone with Novak as their website had limited and back ordered sights for their MKII sight selection. Turns out they have sights and just need to update the website. As a side note, Heine used to cut dovetails for their sights for HPs, now website says no longer offering that service. I called, but they are away for Spring break.

Depending on how my polishing goes, I might have it blued or cerakoted. Easy to ship and then keep the frame as original. Add Novak tritium sights and then my Apex parts. This includes Apex Tactical straight trigger, hammer, sear, sear lever, extractor and firing pin and hammer springs.

The Apex parts are interesting, the sear lever having circular lightening cuts and spring action and the sear also with lightening cuts/hollowed out areas. (see image)

I will update the thread as I make progress.

[cmdrcody]

I see yours has a lanyard ring. Nice addition, can’t wait to see the finished product and hear how well the upgrade feels.

[ToddSig]

Made some progress this weekend. I had detailed stripped, then soaked all parts overnight in CLP, including those which I plan on replacing with the Apex Tactical Parts. The anodized finish on the frame is in pretty good shape, and I dont think I will mess with that. I used my Dremel with polishing tips and Flitz to polish the barrel, and it turned out nicely. No issues internally such as freckling or hazing, rifling is good/acceptable, although not excellent. I used an industrial paint remover to work on and soften the epoxy finish of the slide. Helped, but need to used various grades of wet sandpaper, then a little Dremel on the hard spots. After that, I blasted with 120 Aluminum Oxide. I have one of those cheap blasting guns and I shoot it into a large plastic storage container. I guess i recycle about 50-60%. Should look at a small and inexpensive blast cabinet, but for now, the storage container works fine although not real efficient in recovering usable material.

This week will send the slide to Novak for a yellow outline front sight and black low mount rear sight.

Have not yet decided on finish, I might try a Duracoat finish using an airbrush rather than their aerosol can. I think the airbrush will allow more control and lighter spray. I have tried KB GunKote, and looked pretty good, but not happy with the potential wear. If I mess it up or if it looks too thick, will probably send the slide to Bob Cogan at APW. Any tips on coating/finishing the slide are welcome.

A few images, but so far all is going well and moving along nicely.

The barrel after polishing, over the slide before blasting and frame after cleaning



Barrel after polisihg and slide after blasting with 120 AlumOx

[wycowboy]

Todd, I’ve used DuraCoat quite a lot since 2003/2004 (as memory serves) on more rifles and shotguns than handguns. Had a LLC with a friend painted quite a few barrels, actions and stocks until the pandemic hit. Most were hard use hunting rifles and shotguns with a camo finish I developed with with multiple speckled colors. Barrels mostly solid colors with camo like stocks. We used airbrush and two part paint on most our projects but some use of DuraCoat rattlecan on some small projects. Both products performed beyond our expectations with the two part being tougher, less susceptible to chipping. I carried a custom Remington 700 35 Whelen in a Brown Precision stock as my backup bear rifle when I guided/packed as elk/mule deer guide in the Thorofare area of Wyoming. It received some rough exposure to terrain and weather ten weeks a year for the three years I worked in the mountains on horseback, hiking and climbing. Only one pinhead chip on top of the barrel and a small gouge in the stock from a tumble down a mountainside. It’s really tough stuff. Our handgun work was mostly 1911’s, BHP’s and FNHP’s with a few revolvers thrown in. We started using all DuraCoat at first then after experimenting because my camo process was a multi coat process we found standard rattlecan with a finish coat of DuraCoat was just as durable and much more cost effective. You can control the amount of gloss/matt by more or less additive. DuraCoat in my experience is a great product, the two part airbrush application is superior. Sorry didn’t mean to write a book. Thanks, Don

[ToddSig]

wycowboy , Don, thanks for the info and positive comments on using DuraCoat.  Good to hear you are pleased with the results and wear. If you get a chance and have an image of your DuraCoat application, would love to see your work. I think I am going to try the DuraCoat DuraBlue (Bad Ass) product, and get the two part liquid and apply with my airbrush. Will try their matte blue/black color. Good to hear you can control the gloss with the amount of hardener/additive. I think Cerakote works the same way. The slide was mailed to Novak this morning for the yellow outline front sight and black rear. Will order the DuraCoat this week, and start to assemble the frame with the Apex Tactical parts.

[ToddSig]

Making good progress on my 1980 Alloy HP project pistol. Novak just finished installing the sights. Mike from Novak emailed me yesterday and asked if I wanted them to blue the slide. I asked cold blue or hot. He said hot bluing, and would do it for no charge. Should have the slide back early next week. Fast turnaround, great service, cant say enough good things about Novak and their customer service, first rate, great communications, and really fast turn-around.

I did order the Duracoat and depending on how the bluing turned out I may try it, but will probably save for another project or re-do the HP I used with GunKote.

While the slide was out I installed the Apex Tactical wide flat trigger and Hi Tilt hammer and new springs. I used the three coil trigger spring, and a standard hammer spring which came with the Apex kit. Trigger has a nice short reset and feels really good, very impressed. Hammer went on the hammer strut without issue, and the Apex sear fit nicely. I had to remove a very little bit of material from the safety to clear the sear, but it was a very small amount and took only a few swipes with a file. Working fine now. To test trigger and hammer etc, I placed a spare slide on the alloy frame. All is working well and smoothly. The hammer, when fully back/cocked comes nowhere near the web of my hand, even with a high grip. So looks like no hammer bite.

Looking forward to getting the slide back from Novak and then installing the new Apex heavy duty extractor and balanced sear lever.

A few images of the frame with Apex Tactical wide flat trigger and Hi Tilt Hammer.


 

Trigger cocked


Trigger down

[Bob Reed]

Hello, Todd, - it sounds like things are moving right along and you'll soon have another nice High Power in the group.

[ToddSig]

Slide is back from Novak, Sent out last Monday and arrived yesterday afternoon. Sights installed and a nice matte blue finish, which I now plan on leaving as is. I also plan on using a C&S safety for the time being. Apex Tactical is supposedly working on an HP safety, so when/if that hits the market, I will used one if I like it.

I think the bead blasting with 120 Alum Ox worked nicely and the Novak blued finish is nice and pretty smooth, matte, not polished. Next, re-assemble the slide with Apex sear lever and hard extractor and then near complete.

Sights


Blued slide

[ToddSig]

Finished putting the slide together this afternoon. All went well although the C&S safety needed a bit more fitting with the Apex Tactical sear, but all is clearing and working well. Trigger pull has a nice break, but is a bit heavy, around 8#, so after I hit the range with it to check function, I will probably order a C&S trigger pull reduction spring kit. With a lighter pull and the nice clean break, it should make for a nice pull.

Overall very pleased with the results. The Apex Tactical parts have an excellent finish, very good quality and all fit without issues. Will use their parts again on future HP projects.

Here is what was done to the 1980 alloy HP.

• Apex Tactical wide flat trigger
• Apex Tactical Hi Tilt hammer
• Apex Tactical supplied hammer spring (Apex states this is Springfield factory spec, which I have read as 26#)
• Apex Tactical Hard Sear
• Apex Tactical Balanced Sear Lever with Sear Lever Spring
• Apex Tactical Firing Pin Spring
• Apex Heavy Duty Extractor, Wire EDM cut from heat treated high tensile strength tool steel and Black Oxide Finished. With new extractor spring and pin
• Novak LoMount Carry MKII Black Rear Sight
• Novak dovetail Front .06” Base Tritium Dot, .215 Yellow Outline
• TWS Bead Blast slide, 120 Alum Ox, Novak hot blued, Anodized frame in good condition and left untouched.
• Polished barrel and feed ramp
• BHSS three coil trigger spring
• BHSS Buffered Guide Rod (med)
• New Sear Spring
• Removed Lanyard Ring
• Grips, Navidrex Micarta, horizontal diamond
• 18.5# Wolf Recoil Spring
• C&S Extended Safety (until Apex Tactical comes out with safety)
• C&S hard firing pin retaining plate

[wycowboy]

Todd that looks great! So did Novak bead blast, blue and install in a week? What was the cost if you don’t mind, I have two alloy Hi Powers that I’d like to have the slides finished like that. That slide looks brand new. Will they strip slide and replace or did you send slide stripped? Thanks, Don

[ToddSig]

HI Don, thanks for the kind words on how the alloy HP turned out. I am pleased with the results, but still need to get to the range with it.

I did the bead blasting before sending it to Novak for the slide machining and sight installation. I used 120 Aluminum Oxide, see one of my earlier posts on the build progress.

Yes, Novak took a total of 8 days including shipping to and from. Sent the slide to Novak on Monday April 1 and had it back in the mail on April 8.

I did not ask or request the bluing of the slide, thinking I would DuraCoat it. While it was at Novak, Mike emailed me and asked if I wanted them to blue the slide. I guess they did so since it was already blasted and ready to drop in the tank. I said that would be great, and asked for the cost, and was told no charge. Amazing, but true, and I agree, the bluing looks great.

Total cost for the sights, MKII style slide machining and install was $226.40 which included shipping back to me. Rear plain black sight $34.95, Tritium Yellow Outline front sight $54.95, install and machine slide $125. plus shipping and tax. Pretty much all of the costs are on their website.

[wycowboy]

Sorry I do remember you saying you bead blasted the slide earlier. That is really very reasonable for the work Novak did. I’ve installed quite a few Novak sights on handguns and have always been happy with their products and service. I’ve used Trijicon’s BHP sights on a couple and really like them but they are so hard to get ahold of I’m thinking of sending my two alloy FNHP’s slides to Novak to do what you did. Thanks, Don

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[ToddSig]

wycowboy Don, call Novak, ask for Mike and see if they can work on your slides beyond the sight installation and what the cost would be. They do great work, both on sight installation and custom work.

BTW, tell me about your HP with the S&W sights. I have been a sucker for them since I first saw Stephen Camp's HP #1. I also like vintage Bo-Mar sights.

From left to right, 1984 HP, 1952 HP, 1969 C & 1971 C (both combat models by Austin Behlert)

[sams1]

ToddSig, I noticed that you put an 18 lbs recoil spring in your slide. The stock recoil spring is 17 lbs. I am curious as to the reason... I assume this is to soften the slide rearward impact on the 'cross bar' (being an alloy frame)? If so, the slide will return forward to battery at a higher speed/force, is this a concern? I am debating what to do with mine...

[ToddSig]

Apr 10, 2024 15:29:54 GMT -5 sams1 said:

ToddSig, I noticed that you put an 18 lbs recoil spring in your slide. The stock recoil spring is 17 lbs. I am curious as to the reason... I assume this is to soften the slide rearward impact on the 'cross bar' (being an alloy frame)? If so, the slide will return forward to battery at a higher speed/force, is this a concern? I am debating what to do with mine...The

The recoil spring is actual an 18.5 lb spring, for some reason I did not finish typing the bullet point. I guess one of my many senior moments (I edited and updated the post). I went with the 18.5# spring because the new hammer spring supplied in the Apex Trigger kit is supposedly Springfield SA-35 stock. I have read the SA-35 hammer spring is at 26lbs. With reduced power hammer spring, you usually increase the power of the recoil spring. I had corresponded with a tech at Cylinder and Slide about their reduced weight hammer spring sets, and the 18.5 recoil spring was recommended. I do agree with you on reducing the slide impact. Stephen Camp wrote he always used the 18.5# spring, being only about 10% heavier, but reduced wear, slide to frame impact, and wear on lug slide recess and upper barrel lugs, preventing rounding edges.

I am not a spring guru, so just sort of following some standard and what I hope are best practices. Stephen Camp wrote he never had problems using the heavier recoil spring and thought the benfits far outweighed any potential issues, and those only with extreme use.

Would love to hear Bob Reed give us his thoughts on spring combinations options, and what should be used when changing from stock.