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Post by ToddSig on Mar 21, 2023 16:21:23 GMT -5
Spotted this vintage Bullseye Shooting Aids stoning fixture for the Hi Power on EBAy. Thought, well why not. I was wondering if anyone has seen or used a similar stoning fixture for the Hi Power sear and hammer sets. I have not tried it yet, just playing around with positioning the sear and hammer for right now. Checking edges and setting the set screws. Seems pretty straight forward. Came with instructions which are not very good. I have had no luck finding a similar stoning fixture on the web or on Youtube. The instructions and a few images of the fixture. Once in the fixture, use feeler gauges and cut with hard stone. Not ready to test it out yet, but will do so over the next couple of weeks. I figure if I mess up, all I have lost was a sear and a hammer and gained a nice steel paper weight. Any comments, instructions etc would be greatly appreciated.      ![]()  |
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Post by Bob Reed on Mar 22, 2023 10:31:30 GMT -5
Hello, Todd,
That's an interesting 2-n-1 fixture - congratulations on finding it. When mine was made, I was shooting for a 2-n-1 fixture but wound up with two specific fixtures.
Regarding the sear, I've always followed the FN-Browning Shop Manual and cut (stoned) the sear's nose 90° to the 'flat area' on the sear's top surface - and I bevel the bottom edge of the nose for a break-away angle, but I don't let the bevel/angle go too far up the nose/searing surface. Caution should be taken when beveling the bottom edge and cleaning-up (stoning) the under-side of the sear - you don't want to remove so much material that the sear's nose rotates downward and sit's lower - this will create un-wanted, extra clearance between the safety's fitting 'pad' and sear. Remember prior discussions regarding factory BHP's that have 'slight' sear movement ~ .004" or so while the safety is engaged - this slight movement (on factory guns as shipped) is totally normal & safe and doesn't even allow the top edge of the sear's nose to rise above the top of the hammer hook. Note: Don't go white-knuckle on the trigger if testing for sear movement while the safety is engaged - always maintain a gentle, machinists' touch.
When cutting/stoning the hammer hook/notch; I like a positive angle (top edge of searing surface leaning towards sear) and after test fitting and being content with the work, I then reduce the height of the hammer hook to where it will always be no-less than 'flush' with the top-edge of the sear's nose when/if the sear has been rotated snugly against the safety by someone pulling the trigger with the safety engaged. BTW: When reducing the height of the hammer hook, don't create a 'flat area' above the hook, lower the hook's height, but work back a bit in order to follow the original contour.
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Post by dmac on Mar 23, 2023 9:29:43 GMT -5
Hey Todd.... I have a buddy who is a Gunsmith and says he has fixtures just like that for 1911's and other guns. He said just follow the instructions and remember you not really trying to remove material, just more or less polishing and making the edge crisp. Just look for the hone/tool marks to be the same all the way to the edge. He said if you ever want to sell it, he would gladly buy it from you. He doesn't have one like that for HP's. I can give you his phone number if you wanted to talk to him and get more detail. He said he would be glad to talk to you. Happy stoning !
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Post by ToddSig on Mar 23, 2023 11:22:54 GMT -5
Bob and dmac, thanks for the comments and additional information. dmac, for now, not interested in selling the stoning fixture, need to play around with it some first, then will decide, but I always have difficulty parting with anything hi power related. Also, thanks for the offer to reach out to your gunsmith, but for now, I think I am good with instructions, and just being careful and not to remove too much material. As you say, more of a polish or clean up process. Bob thanks for the pointers on stoning the sear and hammer notches. Below are the measurements and tolerances from the Field Guide. Is there any more info on this? I have looked on a few forums and have not found much more beyond the field guide instructions.  |
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Post by dmac on Mar 23, 2023 18:21:44 GMT -5
I was a Tool & Die maker for over 17 years and did a lot of gunsmithing as a side Hussle ( and still do..but mostly for myself..lol ! ). Unfortunately unless you have a optical comparator, shadowgraph or modern CNC controlled CMM ( Coordinate Measuring Machine ) it is very difficult to measure any of those tolerances exactly. It just takes a ton of practice & patients , and once you have gone too far there is no going back..I know by experince ..LOL ! Just take you time one the first one , hone a bit and try it ..ect...ect..ect.. ! You will be fine ! Good Luck !
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Post by Bob Reed on Mar 24, 2023 10:46:46 GMT -5
Hello, Todd,
That's about all the info that's in the FN Manual, Browning Manual & British L9A1 Manual - but keep-n-mind, these Manuals are primarily covering factory-type, armorer service & repair, where worn sears & hammers typically just get tossed out and not re-cut for additional use or lite trigger pulls.
Poor boys set-up: Using a small machinist square (or makeshift method) you should be able to accurately square the 'flat-area' on the sear's top surface to the fixture for stoning, and when recutting the hammer notch, colour the searing surface and adjust the hammer/angle of cut so material is first removed from the lower 2/3rds or 3/4ths of the searing surface and stone until a coupla passes fully cuts the entire searing surface, then Stop. This way you're 99% sure to maintain a very slight positive angle on the notch, but always check your work by colouring the searing surfaces, reassemble, dry fire a coupla times and disassemble and make sure you have proper engagement/contact.
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Post by ToddSig on Sept 30, 2023 8:21:57 GMT -5
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Post by Bob Reed on Sept 30, 2023 11:20:54 GMT -5
Order Placed - Thanks for the link, Todd.
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