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Post by wheatshocker on Jan 10, 2023 11:26:26 GMT -5
Todd,
What aftermarket hammer and extended safety are on the alloy frame detective in your photo? Also, did you install them yourself or have them installed by a gunsmith?
I would like to replace the spur hammer with some type of ring or commander style hammer. I see C&S has a couple of options as well as CZ, there may be others.
Can just the hammer only be replaced, or is replacing the hammer/sear/springs assembly together, recommended? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I don't want to get in over my head or do something potentially unsafe.
I'm a lefty, so thinking of having an ambidextrous safety installed on my alloy frame HP detective. Since it's pre-MkII (1981) I don't know if that makes these parts different from MkII/III versions.
Thoughts or comments welcome from others as well.
Thanks,
Phil
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Post by ToddSig on Jan 10, 2023 15:22:18 GMT -5
Todd, What aftermarket hammer and extended safety are on the alloy detective in your photo? Also, did you install them yourself or have them installed by a gunsmith? I would like to replace the spur hammer with some type of ring or commander style hammer. I see C&S has a couple of options as well as CZ, there may be others. Can just the hammer only be replaced, or is replacing the hammer/sear/springs assembly together, recommended? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I don't want to get in over my head or do something potentially unsafe. I'm a lefty, so thinking of having an ambidextrous safety installed on my alloy frame HP detective. Since it's pre-MkII (1981) I don't know if that makes these parts different from MkII/III versions. Thoughts or comments welcome from others as well. Thanks, Phil Hi Phil, not sure which pistol you are referring to. I will go through most of the work done. On most of the pistols I install many of the parts first, then sent to APW for the disassembly, mods and assembly. I got a lot of practice that way, and of course a pro was then reinstalling and correcting if their was an issue. The hammer can be replaced, without changing the strut or the safety or the sear. But if there is a lot of wear there could be problems. After parts installation, perform the "click test" to ensure sear to hammer coordination is functioning properly. Re the builds and parts, Top left, I did a lot to this pistol, but regarding safety, trigger etc, I added Garthwaite Browning HP parts, including a Tool Steel Undercut Commander Hammer, Hard Sear, and his Competition Trigger. The safety is from Cylinder Slide and is the Wide Extended Target version. Sithgs are Bomar, most internal parts and springs are replaced. Brushed hard chrome Top right is a 1989 MKIII with FN ambi safety, and firing pin block. This was cut down to Detective length by APW, and a hog nose bushing was installed (I should of had them grind the busing flat, but did not think of it). Safety is the stock MKIII ambi, addedd beavertail, C&S wide trigger and hammer. Hard chrome, matte rounds, brushed flats. Middle row left is the alloy, 1979, it has had springs replaced, adjustable Kensights added. Safety, hammer and trigger all stock. Hard Chrome, brushed flats, matte rounds. Middle row right, is an FEG which I bought off Gunbroker already modified. I believe it has a C&S hammer and trigger. Stock FEG extended safety, Novak sights, stipplings, roll marks removed, serial number moved to side of frame, custom diamond patter grips, action work, brushed hard chrome flats, matte rounds. The lower image is of a 1988, has firing pin safety, but hog nosed bushing and came with original small FN safety. Has C&S hammer and trigger (straightened by APW), Heine sights, French Borders, beavertail, stippling, action job, and DLC finish. |
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Post by wheatshocker on Jan 10, 2023 15:30:24 GMT -5
Sorry for confusion. This alloy frame detective is the one I was referring to:  |
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Post by ToddSig on Jan 10, 2023 16:09:05 GMT -5
Sorry for confusion. This alloy frame detective is the one I was referring to: OK, got it. This was a Detective slide kit I bought off EBay and then used a 1975 round cam alloy as the donor frame. I did all of the work myself on this one, including the refinish on frame and the original slide. I did not need to refinish the Detective slide, and I got the finishes to match pretty well using a Gunkote flat black, applied with an airbrush after bead blasting with 120 AlumOx. For parts, Garthwaite hammer, Garthwaite trigger, C&S extended safety, C&S trigger pull reduction kit, and the original FN slide went off to Novak for white dot sight. I am pleased with the results.  |
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Post by wheatshocker on Jan 10, 2023 16:17:35 GMT -5
As well you should be! I admire it so much, I want to try and duplicate what you did to a certain extent, but I will change a few things here and there. Just need to learn how to do bead blasting and airbrushing Gun Kote. I have my own air compressor but need to acquire some more parts. Hopefully, the war department will approve.  |
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Post by ToddSig on Jan 11, 2023 10:56:51 GMT -5
As well you should be! Just need to learn how to do bead blasting and airbrushing Gun Kote. I have my own air compressor but need to acquire some more parts. Hopefully, the war department will approve. Hi Phil, I am a novice when it comes to bead blasting, never did it before. I dont have a blast cabinet, which from what I understand, recycles the material. I used one of the inexpensive gravity fed sand blasting guns from Amazon or Harbor Freight with the material container. I then set up a large Rubbermaid storage container to blast in (using mask and gloves). The plastic container kept most of the material, which I swept up and recycled. I guess I got about 70 to 80% of the material to reuse. If you dont reuse, you go through it quickly and it can be expensive. I also bought off of Amazon an airbrush kit, with mini compressor, and several gravity feed airbrushes. Once you get used to it, it is pretty basic and simple to use and apply. Keep it moving and light coats. Also for the alloy frame, I read somewhere it is not wise to remove all of the anodizing, only enough bead blasting to scuff up and allow for the coating to adhere. |
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