Post by myassis on Dec 9, 2021 10:04:48 GMT -5
I am the (proud) owner of a Kareen-made P-35 copy. As with most sidearms built for/sold to the Israeli Police/Intelligence agencies, it looks like it spent its service time being dragged behind a truck (or tank?). INTERNALLY, it would probably rate "As New" or just under. Everything is new, sharp, and tight. Except for the magazine disconnect, which (MERCIFULLY) is missing. YAY!
The trigger (which is never "match grade" on a P-35) is not bad, as a result. I don't (yet) have a way to measure trigger pull effort, but this one's isn't horrendous, and fairly crisp.
My SA National Match 1911A1 consistently breaks at 3.5 to 4.0 pounds, and is very crisp. SUBJECTIVE, but side-by-side comparisons of the two lead me to believe that the P-35 trigger breaks at (VERY) roughly half-again the effort required of the .45 ACP, and more crisply than I've experienced from all other Hi-Powers.
I intend to try refinishing the slide first, with cold blue solution (I understand that not all are equal). The slide gets treated first because:
1.) It looks worse than the frame.
2.) I've never completely disassembled a P-35 frame, compared to which, disassembling the slide is very simple (and so am I).
3.) I don't have the space or resources for trying a HOT blue (yet) and, until my technique improves, it'd likely be a waste.
4.) Any "blemishes" I create, through my "learning curve" a likely more easily corrected on the slide than the frame.
PICTURES TO FOLLOW.
NOW, THE QUESTION: What are good/better/best materials to use for the "carding" stage?
I get that I will need to remove all oils before the initial finishing, and again remove any oils which may deposit after/as a result of (?) the first application.
I've heard old clean denim recommended, in that one can never rub too hard with it, though it may take more time and effort to complete the job. I was worried that the denim's color might act like an oil, since it is both organic and aromatic, but it appears not to be a concern, as it is also water-soluble (rare for most aromatics).
Also recommended were various "brass wools" and factory-degreased very fine "steel wools."
I have a sealable pyrex container, large enough to accommodate an assembled 1911A1. I'm wondering if immersing the disassembled slide and parts in the container with a 40:40:10 Xylene:Hexane(s):Acetone solution under vibration would perform the same function as "carding". Naturally, the 40:40:10 solution portions would not be re-used.
Since this is part of learning a hobby, I'm NOT opposed to rubbing down the slide, front to back, inside & outside, with dry or xylene soaked denim. If the consensus is that doing this after each "dip" results in a deeper, more lustrous finish, I'm GOOD with it on that basis, alone.
Unfortunately, I don't know enough about this to tell anyone what I DON'T know. I DO understand the chemistry fairly well, and can make a good argument for EITHER hand-rubbing with denim (or something else), OR immersion under vibration after each "dip", but I don't know what gives experienced smiths and refinishers their best results (besides HOT bluing).
Comments, inputs recommendations, criticisms ALL welcome!
The trigger (which is never "match grade" on a P-35) is not bad, as a result. I don't (yet) have a way to measure trigger pull effort, but this one's isn't horrendous, and fairly crisp.
My SA National Match 1911A1 consistently breaks at 3.5 to 4.0 pounds, and is very crisp. SUBJECTIVE, but side-by-side comparisons of the two lead me to believe that the P-35 trigger breaks at (VERY) roughly half-again the effort required of the .45 ACP, and more crisply than I've experienced from all other Hi-Powers.
I intend to try refinishing the slide first, with cold blue solution (I understand that not all are equal). The slide gets treated first because:
1.) It looks worse than the frame.
2.) I've never completely disassembled a P-35 frame, compared to which, disassembling the slide is very simple (and so am I).
3.) I don't have the space or resources for trying a HOT blue (yet) and, until my technique improves, it'd likely be a waste.
4.) Any "blemishes" I create, through my "learning curve" a likely more easily corrected on the slide than the frame.
PICTURES TO FOLLOW.
NOW, THE QUESTION: What are good/better/best materials to use for the "carding" stage?
I get that I will need to remove all oils before the initial finishing, and again remove any oils which may deposit after/as a result of (?) the first application.
I've heard old clean denim recommended, in that one can never rub too hard with it, though it may take more time and effort to complete the job. I was worried that the denim's color might act like an oil, since it is both organic and aromatic, but it appears not to be a concern, as it is also water-soluble (rare for most aromatics).
Also recommended were various "brass wools" and factory-degreased very fine "steel wools."
I have a sealable pyrex container, large enough to accommodate an assembled 1911A1. I'm wondering if immersing the disassembled slide and parts in the container with a 40:40:10 Xylene:Hexane(s):Acetone solution under vibration would perform the same function as "carding". Naturally, the 40:40:10 solution portions would not be re-used.
Since this is part of learning a hobby, I'm NOT opposed to rubbing down the slide, front to back, inside & outside, with dry or xylene soaked denim. If the consensus is that doing this after each "dip" results in a deeper, more lustrous finish, I'm GOOD with it on that basis, alone.
Unfortunately, I don't know enough about this to tell anyone what I DON'T know. I DO understand the chemistry fairly well, and can make a good argument for EITHER hand-rubbing with denim (or something else), OR immersion under vibration after each "dip", but I don't know what gives experienced smiths and refinishers their best results (besides HOT bluing).
Comments, inputs recommendations, criticisms ALL welcome!
