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Post by che on Oct 20, 2019 20:08:28 GMT -5
I spent hours on BHP schematics and eventually I believe the correct terminology for my broken part is the frame's locking cam. It broke in half and the left half stayed in the frame because it is covered by the slide stop. The right half ended up on the range four free in front of me. Is this a DIY job or best left to a gunsmith?  Attachments:
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Post by jonnyc on Oct 20, 2019 20:25:53 GMT -5
Browning used to supply the cam, but I have heard they are now "unobtainium".
You might have to extend your search for a competent 'smith very widely.
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Post by CXM on Oct 21, 2019 11:11:14 GMT -5
I'd call Browning first... the cam is a part that does not often fail, but when it does you have a major problem.
Installation is not easy to do, so I would suggest letting Browning do the job if they will... Otherwise you probably will want to contact one of the 'smiths that do HP work...
Another option, if Browning does not have the part is to contact FN directly in Belgium... they may be able to supply the part.
Numrich does not list the cam as a separate part. Still it would not hurt to ask them if they have one... I have found they have parts not listed by simply asking several times.
Your final option is to contact the importer of the Turkish made HP and see if they might have the part in stock.
Ultimately your best option may be to part the gun out and get a new one... often the value of the parts is greater than that of the whole gun.
Good luck, and please keep us posted on your progress.
V/r
Chuck
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Post by che on Oct 21, 2019 11:40:21 GMT -5
Chuck thanks for the great advice.
Jonny when Browning had parts I ordered everything I thought would eventually break like the firing pin retaining plate but I never thought the locking cam would break.
I will keep everyone posted.
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Post by jonnyc on Oct 21, 2019 13:40:36 GMT -5
Same here! I have a drawer of HP and Buckmark parts I will never use!
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Post by CXM on Oct 21, 2019 17:21:52 GMT -5
What ammunition have you been shooting? Chuck thanks for the great advice. Jonny when Browning had parts I ordered everything I thought would eventually break like the firing pin retaining plate but I never thought the locking cam would break. I will keep everyone posted. |
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Post by che on Oct 22, 2019 23:49:53 GMT -5
What ammunition have you been shooting? Chuck thanks for the great advice. Jonny when Browning had parts I ordered everything I thought would eventually break like the firing pin retaining plate but I never thought the locking cam would break. I will keep everyone posted. Reloads of 125 LRN over 3.5 grains of Bullseye. Used that mostly 1982-2000. Then I went with a 115 FMJ over 4.2 grains of Bullseye. The last five years I have been shooting Federal or CCI aluminum case and Tula steel case. |
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Post by CXM on Oct 23, 2019 14:53:24 GMT -5
Thanks... I was wondering if you were shooting +P ammo. Your hand loads are in the general range of what I load too... shouldn't have much problem there... V/r Chuck What ammunition have you been shooting? Reloads of 125 LRN over 3.5 grains of Bullseye. Used that mostly 1982-2000. Then I went with a 115 FMJ over 4.2 grains of Bullseye. The last five years I have been shooting Federal or CCI aluminum case and Tula steel case. |
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Post by abninftr on Nov 10, 2019 22:26:15 GMT -5
Thanks... I was wondering if you were shooting +P ammo. Your hand loads are in the general range of what I load too... shouldn't have much problem there... V/r Chuck Reloads of 125 LRN over 3.5 grains of Bullseye. Used that mostly 1982-2000. Then I went with a 115 FMJ over 4.2 grains of Bullseye. The last five years I have been shooting Federal or CCI aluminum case and Tula steel case. One additional thought here. As Chuck said, your load should not be a problem. However, care has to be taken to ensure there is not leading building up in your barrel. Lead build up can cause an over-pressure condition IF it becomes substantial. |
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Post by CXM on Nov 11, 2019 15:29:22 GMT -5
Good point... I shot very little but cast lead alloy bullets for longer than I can remember... but in the past 10 years or so I changed over to copper plated lead bullets... very easy on barrels but don't lead... unfortunately I have a huge stock of cast bullets in various calibers in the Garage that don't get used... Nothing wrong with cast bullets... they are accurate as you can ask for... and used to be cheaper and more uniform than the plated bullets, these days the plated bullets are very uniform and don't look like they have the mumps... and I buy them cheaper than cast bullets as well... FWIW Chuck Thanks... I was wondering if you were shooting +P ammo. Your hand loads are in the general range of what I load too... shouldn't have much problem there... V/r Chuck One additional thought here. As Chuck said, your load should not be a problem. However, care has to be taken to ensure there is not leading building up in your barrel. Lead build up can cause an over-pressure condition IF it becomes substantial. |
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Post by jonnyc on Nov 12, 2019 12:28:58 GMT -5
Good prices now for lead...you might want to consider scrapping it.
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Post by gt40doc on Nov 12, 2019 15:30:00 GMT -5
Good point... I shot very little but cast lead alloy bullets for longer than I can remember... but in the past 10 years or so I changed over to copper plated lead bullets... very easy on barrels but don't lead... unfortunately I have a huge stock of cast bullets in various calibers in the Garage that don't get used... FWIW Chuck I have done the same thing in my loading. About the only cast lead bullets that I still load is for 38-40 brass.......the other calibers get FMJ, or plated(most are plated). They are clean to handle, and load, plus no barrel leading!! I admit to getting a bit lazy in my "senior years". If bullet production suddenly stops, I have more than enough lead bullets to keep me shooting for a looooong time!! |
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